A Neo-Pagan's Guide to Egypt

There are many tourist guides available for , but so far none have been written from a specifically neo-Pagan viewpoint.  Of course, much that is relevant to muggles is also relevant to our pagan brethren – flights, accomodation, etc.  This article is not intended to replace your trusty copy of Rough Guide, but to give some pagan oriented advice which will hopefully help you to enhance your experience of the country.

First, and most obviously, from the moment you land in Cairo you ain’t in Kansas anymore.  If you like your illegal substances, don’t even think of trying to smuggle them into the country – Egypt’s anti-drugs laws are draconian, to say the least, as a cheery little welcome sign informs you at customs.  And of course, do not attempt to take ritual blades through customs at either end, unless you want a nice cosy chat with anti-terrorism officers. 

The Egyptians are incredibly hospitable people, but you should remember that their attitude towards religion is radically different from ours.  Egyptians are either Muslims (the majority) or Copts (the minority), so that cute demons-in-bondage T-shirt that amuses your friends is likely to cause serious offence.  Also bear in mind that proselytising any religion except for Islam is illegal, so don’t try to explain the wonders of Wicca to the locals.  The same goes for public nudity; going out to Giza to perform skyclad ceremonies is not a good idea.  The basic rule is that you can do pretty much anything behind closed doors as long as you don’t talk about it afterwards.  Most Egyptians will assume you are Christian anyway, so it is better just to play along.

is not a good place for animal lovers.  Egyptians do not understand the concept of animal rights; animals are there to be eaten, worked, or worn, and the locals will not take kindly to indignant khawagas (tourists) berating them about such things.  Likewise vegetarianism is not understood, except in the five star hotels.  Vegetable soup is likely to be made with chicken stock, for example.  The good news is that many of the Egyptian staples, such as fuul and falafel, are vegetarian anyway.  Also fresh fruit and vegetables are available at the markets in abundance.  If you are invited to someone’s home you will be expected to eat with the family, however.

Feminism is not really understood either, although Egyptian women are slowly beginning to assert their rights.  Western women tend to be treated like honorary men.  Single women will be hassled for sex by the local lotharios, so wear a headscarf if you want to avoid such attentions.  Headscarves mean "Don't hassle me for sex" and most Egyptian men will respect them.  If all else fails, make a fuss and threaten to call the police.  This works wonders.

There is a wide choice of accomodation in Cairo, from flea pits to 5 star hotels.  Middle range hotels (3 stars and above) are usually clean and comfortable, but will only have single or double rooms.  The 5 star suites are excellent for ritual work, if you can afford them.  If you are planning on an extended stay you are probably better off renting an apartment.  Prices are comparatively cheap and you will be able to set up a permanent temple.

Sightseeing-wise you should definitely go to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities on Midan al-Tahrir.  This houses a fine collection of religious statues, coffins, papyrus scrolls and all manner of other stuff.  Overt worship of the Egyptian gods is not recommended but the gift shops sell a number of good quality statues for your temple/shrine and a comprehensive collection of books about Pharaonic religion.  The Royal Mummy collection is definitely worth a look for the more psychically inclined.

The Giza plateau is also worth a look, if somewhat chaotic.  Stables abound for those who fancy a ride into the desert on camel or horse back, but bear in mind that you will pay well over the odds for the privilege.

Thelemites might like to explore Bulaq, where Aleister Crowley received The Book of the Law, and should definitely find the Stele of Revealing, which is upstairs in the museum.  If you’re there for the Feast of the Book of the Law there is a good chance it will coincide with Coptic Easter, when the entire city shuts down for three days.

The remains of the temple of Heliopolis can be found in the district of Matareiyah, which is a longish metro ride from central Cairo. Outside Cairo there is the cat cemetery at Zagazig, all that remains of the temple of Bast, and the pyramids at Saqqarah (where the Pyramid Texts were found) and Dhashur.

Those of you who like Ancient Egyptian artwork will find a multitude of papyrus “museums” to visit.  These sell hand painted papyrus art, most of which has a Pharaonic theme.  Much of the work is generic in nature, although if you develop a good relationship you can get stuff custom made.  Good quality papyrus is expensive, but you get what you pay for.  If you’re on a budget you can buy poor quality printed banana leaf from the street vendors, but it’s not really worth it.  Perfume stores are also plentiful.  Good quality perfume essence should cost no more than 2 Egyptian pounds a gram.  Pretty much any scent is available. 

If you want to do some serious shopping head for the Khan el-Khalili in the Islamic quarter.  This is the largest bazaar in the Middle East and sells everything from T-shirts to solid gold jewellery.  Again it is possible to get stuff custom made, if you have the money.

And, ALWAYS HAGGLE!

Incidentally, don’t visit the local herbalists (or Cairo Zoo) unless you enjoy cruelty to animals.

Down south, Luxor is considerably smaller than Cairo, and less manic.  It is a good base for exploring Upper Egypt.  The bulk of the intact temples are near here, as are the Valleys of the Kings and Queens and Deir el-Bahari.  Karnak temple is a must – it is close enough to walk to if you fancy a pilgrimage, and is stunning to behold.  Thelemites should certainly head for Edfu where a Ptolemaic temple to Horus is located, and Denderah, the cult sanctuary of Hathor, is also worth a visit.  Apparently it is possible to visit such temples out of hours for private worship, if you have enough baksheesh (tip money).  Be discreet and don’t insist on your right to do so – it is entirely at the discretion of local authorities, and they don’t take kindly to Westerners who think they own the place.

Further south again is Aswan, which is convenient for the temples of Sobek and Isis at Philae.  Don’t bother with Abu Simbel unless you’re a fan of Ramses II.

The basic rule is don’t draw attention to yourself.  Paganism is still regarded as a form of devil-worship by most Egyptians, and they simply will not understand any other viewpoint.  As long as you keep a low profile, and your opinions to yourself, you shouldn’t have any problems.